Restrained, low-key nose of red currants, pomegranates, fresh violets, licorice and cherry stones. Medium-bodied, it shows refined tannins and refreshing acidity. It's not quite simple, but flows easily.

The 2021 Barolo Bussia is not quite as open as some of the other wines in the range. Soaring aromatics, bright acids and beams of tannin give the the wine notable energy. Spice, leather, orange peel and rose open with a bit of coaxing. There is a lot of wine here. That said, my impression is that there is even more wine here than what is in evidence today.

I tasted three very different single-vineyard expressions of Barolo from Ceretto. From Monforte d'Alba, the Ceretto 2021 Barolo Bussia begins with a soft start, showing red fruits, currants, blue flowers and spices. Bussia is often one of the hardest MGAs for me to pin down- 1, because it is so big and dispersive, and 2, because it always tends to be a little understated in the first few years. I find that to be the case here. But understated also means delicate and finessed in the long term. Ceretto draws upon a 0.73-hectare site at the heart of Bussia Soprana with 25-year-old vines.

Bright cherry and raspberry flavors take on a dusky cast in this solidly built red. The vivid acidity and chalky tannins leave a firm edge on the finish. Overall, this is balanced, with hints of earth and eucalyptus in the end.