On the dry side, this wine is marked by concentrated botrytis spiced with dark, smooth honey. There is a tense edge of lemon zest and structure here.

Tasted at the chateau, the 2004 Chateau Doisy-Vedrines was one of the surprises of the vertical tasting. It has a delightful fresh bouquet with orange peel, honey, tinned apricot and creme brulee aromas that are well defined. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous opening, well-judged acidity and a vibrant, tensile finish that feels long and vivacious. Drinking beautifully now, the 2004 will last another 20 years with ease. This is a little gem from Olivier Casteja.