A gorgeous wine that is still flexing its muscles, showing controlled brilliance, barely putting a step out of line. The tannins are perfectly integrated but full of life, and the fruit is savoury with autumnal berries of blackberry and bilberry, set against grilled cedar, cool ash and careful flicks of black pepper spice. The overall character remains concentrated, barely a hint of tertiary flavours, still well bedded down with a long life ahead of it.